The assumption about cycling in Italy is that the terrain will be hilly. This is not the case in Apulia, whose gentle rolling farmland is an ideal introduction to cycling and Italy. To arrive in the magical trullo region is like spinning into a fairyland of white conical dwellings, huge gnarled olive trees and miles of ancient stone walls. The warm and generous Pugliese people produce a culinary repertoire of abundant vegetables, pasta, bread and seafood, sure to satisfy even the hungriest cyclist.
A highly recommended route begins in Polignano a Mare, a charming whitewashed village overlooking the Adriatic just south of Bari. Stay at the delightful Grotta Palazzese and enjoy the spectacular view while you dine in its atmospheric grotto restaurant. From Polignano head inland and stop at the Castellana Grottos, considered the deepest caverns in Italy. Then cycle towards Alberobello, famous for its picture-perfect narrow streets and hundreds of beehive-like trullo dwellings. Alberobello is the perfect base for several glorious loop rides to some of the most beautiful towns in southern Italy.
Your first loop should be to Martina Franca and Locorotondo, the latter a stunning circular village known for its excellent white wine. On loop two, ride to Ostuni, a charming hamlet whose whitewashed arches and houses are neatly piled like sugar cubes on hills rich in olive groves and vineyards. Another itinerary starts at Alberobello and heads south, past ancient olive groves and along the Adriatic to the Greek ruins of Egnazia. The lovely Masseria Salamina is a restored 17th-century agricultural estate situated on 17 acres of farmland. It makes the perfect cycling base and offers a homestyle atmosphere and traditional meals of the Salamina's own farm products.
Summers can be very hot and crowded in Apulia, so the best times for cycling are in April or May, when temperatures are perfect and the entire region is in full bloom, or September through early October, during la vendemmia (grape harvest). Cyclists will love the tiny roads that sometimes seem like bike paths. The only problem is that many of these roads are not on maps so it can be a bit of a maze; cyclists should bring a compass and be ready to explore. Luckily, the outgoing and friendly Pugliese people will always get you pointed towards the right trullo (pictured above).
The Grotta Palazzese Hotel-Restaurant, with 20 air-conditioned rooms ($75.-120./night for a double) and a spectacular restaurant in a huge natural grotto ($80. and up for two), is at Via Narciso 59, Polignano a Mare.
Masseria Salamina has seven double rooms (weekly rate: $210.-535./person) and eight suites (daily rate: $75.-135./person). Full and half board are available. Located at 72010 Pezze di Greco.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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