Once you've had your fill of nature hikes, this two-day trip presents some of the more traditional Italian offerings: exquisite hill towns, interesting museums, art-filled churches and palazzi. To begin, take A24 east from L'Aquila to Colledara, then head south on the local road to Castelli. This is a classic hill town with fabulous views of the valley. Gran Sasso, highest point on the Italian peninsula, seems to hover overhead as you stroll through the charming streets and alleys. But you haven't come here in search of ancient art. Castelli is a place to buy contemporary art: its inhabitants are some of the most talented ceramicists in all Italy, and their wares are on sale everywhere. Before you start shopping, visit the excellent Ceramics Museum to see many beautifully displayed examples of the local skills, dating through the centuries.
Back on A24, go east one exit, then take SS150 towards Roseto degli Abruzzi (or, to save the toll, continue on the state road from Colledara to Sant'Agostino, where you'll pick up SS150). After about ten miles, turn off onto the local road to Atri. Its ninth-century cathedral is built on the ruins of a Roman bath (look for the dolphin mosaic), and the fine frescoes by Andrea De Lito are considered the most important Renaissance works in Abruzzo. In the main square, Roman mosaics take shelter under thick glass panels set into the pavement. Pause in the Belvedere Garden for a spectacular view across the valley, all the way to the sea, which is where Pescara is. You'll reach it by continuing along the road you took to Atri, then turning south, past groves of ancient olives, along coastal route SS16.
Having been bombarded over and over again, Pescara isn't Italy's most picturesque town. It boasts no famous art museums, no illustrious churches, no breathtaking vistas across valleys, not even a glorious beach. Still, if you're in the area, we can think of at least two reasons to spend a few hours there.
First, Pescara is a very pleasant example of the quintessential provincial capital. Roam for an hour or two through its bustling streets lined with modern apartment buildings, affordable boutiques and well-stocked food stores, sit for a while with the locals at an outdoor cafe, stroll along the seaside Lungomare Matteotti at sunset and you will have a real sense of what it's like to live in a prosperous Italian backwater. Then, when the sun has set, enjoy reason number two: some of the best seafood cuisine in the entire country, available at almost any trattoria, no matter how unimposing. You'll find plenty of hotels in which to spend the night (see below).
The next morning, take SS5 to Chieti and visit the National Archeological Museum to see its excellent display of artifacts from the Romans and the ancient Abruzzo inhabitants who predated them. Also visit the 2nd-century Roman theatre in Via Zecca and the small Roman temple behind the main post office building.
From Chieti, take SS5 west about twelve miles to Torre de' Passeri, then follow the signs to nearby S. Clemente Abbey. Widely considered the most glorious example of Abruzzo-style romanesque architecture, this pink-and-white complex has delicate travertine columns, carvings and decorations that resemble the finest lace.
The Ceramics Museum is just outside Castelli; open Tues-Sat 9-1.
The National Archeological Museum is in Chieti on Via R. Paolucci.
S. Clemente Abbey is open only in the morning.
•Carlton, Viale della Riviera 35, 65123 Pescara. A fairly large, centrally-located place overlooking the sea. About $90./double room.
•Salus, Lungomare Matteotti, 65100 Pescara. A charming small hotel on the banks of the canal where it flows into the sea. Renovated rooms have modern baths. Breakfast and free parking included. About $75./double room.
•Grand Hotel Abruzzo, Via A. Herio 20, 66100 Chieti. Centrally located, this 66-room hotel has nicely furnished rooms, modern baths, parking and cable tv. About $100./double.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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