These are a few suggestions for great dining. Some are quite well known; others are local secrets. You're sure to enjoy yourselves at any of them.
•Trattoria Pallottino (Via Isole delle Stinche 1/r, tel.055-289-573; closed Monday). Near Santa Croce. This traditional wineshop has a friendly atmosphere, with wooden tables and straw placemats. Typical Florentine cuisine, including large portions of pasta, or assortments (assaggi) of cheese and salami. This is a popular place, so phone ahead and avoid rush hours, especially 1-2pm. About $15./person, if you drink the house wine, which is quite good.
•Enoteca Bar "Fuori Porta" (Via del Monte alle Croci 10/r, tel. 055-234-2483; closed Sunday. Open 9:30am-1am; no credit cards). Below Piazzale Michelangelo. Traditional Florentine snack bar, with crostini, assorted cheeses and salamis and preserved vegetables. A large selection of Italian wines by the glass or bottle. Very popular with the local theatre and art crowd, who especially like the outdoor seating in summer. About $7 for wine and a snack.
•Cibreino (Piazza Ghiberti 35, tel. 055-234-1100; closed Sunday and Monday). Near Santa Croce. Next door to the famed (and costly) Cibreo, this lively trattoria features large tables shared by all, and most of the same dishes as the Cibreo (at lower prices). Don't come here if you're longing for pasta. You'll find only delicious soups and casseroles (sformati) for the first course, and local specialties such as stuffed rabbit, veal and ricotta meatballs or stewed calamari for seconds. Save room for the chocolate cake. $20-25./person without wine.
•Vineria alle Murate (Via Ghibellina 52/r, tel. 055-240-618; closed Monday). Like the Cibreino, this elegant little candlelit restaurant is the less expensive sister of Alle Murate, next door. Very popular with the after-theatre crowd. You'll love the wine cellar, visible through the glass floor. Phone ahead. $20./person without wine.
•Al Lume di Candela (Via delle Terme 23/r, tel. 055-294-566; closed Monday lunch and Sunday). Near Via Tornabuoni. More expensive than the other restaurants on this list, this is a first-class splurge. Extremely elegant settings, unforgettable food and impeccable service justify $55./person.
•Ristorante-Pizzeria Edi House (Piazza Savonarola 6-10/r, tel. 055-588-886). Near Via Masaccio. This two-year old establishment is far more modern and stylish than most Florentine "pizzerie." Great salads, pastas and pizza. $15.-20./person for pizza, pasta and wine.
•Il Latini (Via dei Panchetti 6, tel. 055-210-916; closed Monday). Near the Duomo. Friendly atmosphere, rustic settings and, at lunch, a noisy local crowd. Great fried vegetables and antipastos. Phone ahead. $15.-20./person, with house wine.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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