In 1968, land in the Chianti region was cheap. The area's wines had fallen into disrepute, thanks largely to those wicker-wrapped bottles of plonk which generally ended up as candle-holders in bad restaurants. The area had also not yet caught the attention of Englishmen who would eventually come in droves for summer holidays and create something we now call "Chiantishire." So the opportunity was there for brothers Domiziano and Dino Manetti to buy the 222-acre Fontodi estate for what would be about $20,000 today.
The Fontodi estate sits on hills in the heart of the Chianti Classico subregion (there are 7 subregions of Chianti, of which Classico is the most distinguished). Each wine estate along the "Chianti Road" south of Siena has its own unique climate depending on the steepness of the hills and the direction which the land faces. The Fontodi vineyards are highly desirable because of their western exposure, which gives the benefits of cooling sea breezes, and their superior elevation, which provides an abundance of rain. The name Fontodi is derived from an ancient Lombard phrase, fonte de oro, which means a place rich with water.
The price was right and the prospects for the vineyards were excellent, but there was an enormous amount of work to do in 1968. The estate had been neglected for years and everything, including the farm buildings, had to be restored. Between 1969 and 1974, all the vineyards were replanted. Winemaking facilities were restored and expanded. And so began the process of creating a world-class winery.
Today, Fontodi is managed by Macro and Giovanni Manetti, cousins who are sons of the 1968 visionaries. They are ably assisted by winemaker Franco Bernabei, who is now recognized as one of Chianti's leading oenologists. This team has made a conscious decision to continue traditional methods, including the governo process whereby grapes are allowed to dry (like raisins) for a period of time before being crushed for juice. This process creates wines which have great character when young but which will also age well.
FontodiA survey of Fontodi wines is like a quick course in contemporary Tuscan winemaking. Of their four red wines, the Chianti Classico is the most traditional, a blend of Sangiovese and other grapes aged in huge oak barrels. Next is the Chianti Classico riserva, similar to the "basic" wine with the addition of some Cabernet Sauvignon and with aging of a portion of the wine in small French oak barrels. Third is the Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo, made with grapes from a single, special vineyard, and a large portion of the aging occurring in small barrels. Finally, there is Flaccinello della Pieve, made of pure Sangiovese and aged entirely in small barrels (smaller barrels give more oaky character and create wines that take longer to mature). Flaccinello, like Vigna del Sorbo, is the name of an old vineyard on the estate. Flaccinello is not Chianti because it does not contain other grape types as required by law, but it is a superb example of what is often called a "Super Tuscan," wine made with Italian grapes in a French manner. The results are, as the name promises, super.
Fontodi also produces a dry white wine called Meriggio, made of pinot bianco and other grapes and aged briefly in oak barrels. There is also very limited production of vin santo, a dessert wine made by allowing the grapes to dry almost completely to a raisin-like state before crushing. The result is a Sauterne-like wine that goes well with foie gras, fruit desserts or simple Tuscan biscotti. Fontodi wines and their excellent extra virgin olive oil are available at many wine shops in the U.S. (except the vin santo, which is not commercially exported). The basic Chianti Classico is quite affordable at around $12 a bottle. A good vintage of Vigna del Sorbo will run about $28 at release. The best vintages of recent years were 1985, 1988 and 1990. Fontodi is not open to the public but private tours are sometimes available by writing to the winery.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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