Most people speed through Veneto, on their way to our favorite Italian city, Venice. From the train the land looks flat and unappealing, yet its cities are fascinating treasure troves of art and the art of fine living, and only a few miles to the north the Alps begin, heralded by charming little hill towns surrounded by picturesque world-class vineyards.
ChioggiaIf the crowds in Venice overwhelm you, the nearby seaport town of Chioggia is in many ways a miniature replica, replete with a vast cathedral, fine palazzi and a warren of canals. The only thing missing is the tourists. Continuing south from here you'll come to the beautiful sandy beach at Rosolina Mare, where a cool, luxurious pine forest makes a perfect spot for a swim and a picnic, especially if you're traveling with children. Nature lovers and romantics will want to head just a bit further and experience the desolate beauty of the broad Po Delta.
Turning inland along route 443, you'll pass Adria, a sleepy little river town that was an ancient Roman center. Now it marks the edge of the Veneto's famed villa territory, and it's a gateway to Rovigo, home to a great museum called the Accademia dei Concordi, an ornate belltower designed by Longhena, and three tiers of frescoes representing the life of Mary in the Madonna del Soccorso church. From here we hop onto the A13 autostrada heading north, stopping briefly in three delightful little hill towns: first Monselice, then Este, which has a 14th-century walled castle and a renowned canvas by Tiepolo in its cathedral, and then Arquà Petrarca, a medieval village which appropriated the name of its most famous former resident, Francesco Petrarch.
Lord Byron loved this area, called the Euganean Hills. Try to visit it on weekdays when it's less crowded, so you can enjoy its cheerful trattorie and blessedly cool breezes. After lunch, head west on route 10 to the fairy-tale walled town of Montagnana. Still preserving most of its original medieval flavor, it has a magnificent town square, and there's a lovely Veronese Transfiguration over the altar in the 15th-century cathedral.
Now take Route 247 north to Acugliaro, then turn east toward the spa town of Abano Terme. After a few miles you'll come to the Benedictine monastery of Praglia, a peaceful complex of Renaissance buildings with excellent views of the hills, some fine paintings and a famous center for restoring old books. If you're around during Mass, you may hear some beautiful Gregorian chants.
Sant' AntonioPadua the Erudite awaits us. The second oldest university town in Europe, it's a great place to use as a base instead of Venice, which is only a short train ride away. One of the most unforgettable things to see in Padua is the 16th-century anatomy theatre in the Bo, the palazzo which also houses the Law School and the desk from which Galileo gave his lectures. You'll want to visit the Scrovegni Chapel (exquisitely frescoed by Giotto), the excellent Civic Museum, the fresco cycle in the baptristy of the cathedral and the famous romanesque-gothic church of Sant'Antonio. One of the most richly decorated churches in all of Italy, the locals simply call it "Il Santo." Andrea Mantegna's monumental frescoes in the church of the Eremiti are breathtaking, despite being heavily damaged in World War II. And do walk over to Prato della Valle, supposedly the largest piazza in all of Italy.
Back on the highway, take Route 47 north to Cittadella, another walled town. Unlike Montagnana, this fortress has circular walls made of bricks layered with pebbles from the Brenta River. Try to peep in at the small 19th-century theatre. A short detour takes you to Castelfranco Veneto, another walled town, birthplace of Giorgione. Two of his works are visible here: in the Casa di Giorgione, a frieze symbolizes the liberal and mechanical arts, and in the cathedral, the Castelfranco Madonna is to the right of the choir.
MarosticaTravelling west on Route 245 you'll come to yet another version of the walled town. Marostica's bastions climb straight up the hill, overlooking the exquisite medieval square where a costumed human chess game is played every year in September. Vineyards abound here, producing the white wine that takes its name from the nearby town of Soave.
Titian's HouseIt's just a quick run north to Bassano del Grappa, home of the delicious and heady after-dinner spirits, and picturesque location of a wooden bridge built in the 16th century by Palladio. A warm and friendly town, Bassano has many old monuments and an excellent museum, and it is the gateway to the Pre-Alps, headquartered up the road in Belluno. Skiers, mountain climbers and alpine enthusiasts will love the villages strewn among these hills and dales. Take a few days to relax here. Drive on up the valley to look for movie stars in the world-famed resort of Cortina, or veer off to Pieve di Cadore, a remote mountain hamlet where you can visit the home of Titian and see one of his paintings in the local church. This great artist's works are scattered all over the towns in this area, by the way. Tracking them down can be great fun.
•Accademia dei Concordi, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 14, Rovigo. Open Mon-Fri and Sun, 9am-12:30pm, 3:30pm-6:30pm; Sat 9am-12:30pm.
•Abbazia di Praglia: open Tues-Sun 3:30pm-5:30pm. Guided tours on the half hour.
•Il Bo, Via Otto Febbraio 2, Padova. Guided tours are led Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm and 3pm-5pm, Sat 9am-noon. Call the Associazione Guida (tel. 011-39-49-820-9711) just to be sure.
•Museo Civico, Piazza del Santo 10, Padova. Open Tues-Sat 9am-1:30pm, Sun 9am-1pm.
•Scrovegni Chapel, Corso Garibaldi, Padova. Open 9am-12:30pm and 2:30pm-5:30pm in summer; 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30pm-4:30pm in winter.
•Casa di Giorgione, Piazza del Duomo, Castelfranco Veneto. Usually open Tues-Sun 9am-noon and 3-5:30pm.
•Museo Civico, Piazza Garibaldi, Bassano del Grappa. Open Tues-Sat 10am-12:30pm and 2:30pm-6:30pm, Sun 10am-12:30pm.
•Casa di Tiziano, Via Arsenale, Pieve di Cadore. Open 9am-12:30pm and 4pm-7pm.
One of the most interesting places to stay in this whole region is halfway between Belluno and Bassano del Grappa, on the provincial road from Valdobbiadene to Vittorio Veneto (the so-called "strada del prosecco"). The Romantik Hotel Abbazia (Via IV Novembre, 31051 Follina) is set in a 17th-century country estate, but each of its 18 rooms is totally up-to-date, including Jacuzzis in the baths. This makes a great base for your exploration of the area. $140./double.
A good place to stay in Rovigo is Villa Regina Margherita (Viale Regina Margherita 6, 45100 Rovigo), a stately old place set in a quiet garden. All rooms recently restored. $110./double.
In Padua, try the Donatello, at Via del Santo. The façade is a bit shabby but the rooms are fine, the restaurant overlooks the basilica and it's the best location in town. About $100./double.
Praglia AbbeyAnother unusual solution for lodgings is at the Praglia Abbey (Bresseo, Padova). There are two dormitories: one inside the abbey has 24 rooms for men; the other is on the grounds and has 12 rooms. Upon arrival, you will receive printed "rules of behavior," which basically ask you to respect the monks' way of life. The best way to reserve (which you must do) is to let us telephone ahead. If you have the name of a priest or bishop, don't hesitate to use it. No charge, but all donations are welcome.
The Belvedere is a popular place to eat in Bassano del Grappa (Viale delle Fosse 1; tel. 011-39-424-524-988). There's a prix fixe menu featuring all sorts of delicious local specialties. Moderate; closed Sundays and August.
And do try Belle Parti-Toulà (Via Belle Parti 11, tel. 011-39-49-875-1822) in Padua for truly wonderful local food at extremely reasonable prices (about $20./person). Reservations required; closed Mondays and August.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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