The southern part of Tuscany is much less well known than the northern reaches of the region. The attractions of Florence are so monumental that many visitors never seek elsewhere. Those who are more adventurous usually stop looking when they find the treasures of Siena and the Chianti wine country. But we say keep going even further south. Between Chianti and the hills of Umbria are truly enchanting towns, the historic vineyards of Montalcino and Montepulciano and at least two of the most delightful inn/restaurants we've ever found.
ArezzoThe most historic of the hill towns are Arezzo, Montepulciano and Pienza. With less than 100,000 people, Arezzo is the largest town in the area. It claims many famous sons, including the poet Petrarch and the architect and biographer Vasari. The town changed hands many times in Medieval and Renaissance days, but managed to keep its focus; still today it remains a prosperous center of the jewelry business. The highlight is the central Piazza Grande, surrounded on two sides by the crenelated façades of Gothic houses and on the other two by stunning Renaissance masterpieces. These include a loggia designed by Vasari, now the site of the renowned monthly antique market. Peeking into one corner of the square is the apse (or rear façade) of a 12th-century Romanesque church which fronts on a nearby street. In addition to the monthly market, Arezzo has a large number of antique stores and, of course, jewelry stores.
MontepulcianoMontepulciano sits on a long, narrow hill. Park outside the town and enter on foot through the Porta al Prato, next to which a column rises to support a stone Marzocco, a lion which symbolizes the town's allegiance to Florence during the Renaissance. The town, which today has 15,000 inhabitants, was a center of artistic life in the Renaissance. The surrounding vineyards are the source of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a dark red wine whose name is the subject of many legends. Be sure to pick up a few bottles in one of the shops in town.
PienzaIf Montepulciano is a textbook of Renaissance architecture, Pienza is a textbook, or maybe a living experiment, in Renaissance urban planning. In addition to wonderful churches, public buildings and private residences of all sizes, the town has a large number of antique and home decoration stores that are among the best in Italy. There are also many health food stores which sell local honey and preserves. Each September brings a cheese festival to celebrate the local sheep cheese.
Now that we have you excited about southern Tuscany, you will ask where do we eat? Where do we stay? Fortunately, there are two stellar choices in this regard.
Just a few miles north of Montepulciano is the tiny village of Montefollonico. There, Dania and Umberto Lucherini have transformed an old stone farmhouse into La Chiusa, a restaurant and inn. The vaulted dining room is spacious and simple, yet elegant. Umberto is the host, Dania is in the kitchen. Most of the food comes from their own farm, including olive oil and white truffles available year-round. Featured dishes are pici, a spaghetti-like pasta hand-rolled one strand at a time (the pasta maker will demonstrate her technique at your table if you ask), grilled baby goat chops and pigeon in vin santo sauce. Umberto gladly advises on the choice of wines from their superb cellar. There are only eight rooms in the inn, simply decorated with all modern conveniences. In warm weather, you can dine on the terrace and enjoy sweeping views of the countryside whence come the raw ingredients for your meal.
Locanda dell'AmorosaJust a few miles south of Sinalunga, was a medieval farming village which was abandoned in the 1700's and not inhabited again for nearly 200 years. Today you approach by a long cypress-lined drive. Park outside the walls and enter through the main tower gate. Once inside the central court, you see the old village church straight ahead. Around and behind you are various residential and farming buildings, within which the owners have skillfully hidden twenty guest rooms, a large reception area and a spacious dining room. The latter occupies the former stables and has spectacular beamed ceilings and brick floors. Rooms are tucked into every corner. On our last visit, our "room" was really four rooms on three levels: first-level sitting room with giant fireplace, second-level large dressing room with antique armoires and overstuffed chairs, and bathroom lined with red tile and travertine, and third-level bedroom with windows on all four sides overlooking the countryside. The food is excellent and benefits from the fact that Amorosa is once again a working farm: they produce their own wine, olive oil and vegetables and you are likely to encounter chickens on the way to the swimming pool. What is most seductive about Amorosa, and southern Tuscany in general, is the atmosphere, that of a world where man and nature are in harmony. Once there, you never want to leave.
The towns and inns we've described are quite accessible. All lie within a short drive of the Autostrada del Sole, the main freeway between Florence and Rome. Florence is less than two hours by car, Rome slightly more than that. All the places we've mentioned can be visited in a day (two days if you want to appreciate what you are seeing and enjoy your meals). Also readily accessible are Siena and Chianti to the north and Perugia, Orvieto and Umbria to the east and south. If you are not up to the quantity or prices of dining at La Chiusa or Amorosa, there are plenty of other options. Fattoria Pulcino, just outside of Montepulciano, is well-known for simple grilled meats and excellent house wine. Del Prato in Pienza is a good choice for local pasta dishes. Better yet, check out the local markets and gather ingredients for a picnic. Don't forget your corkscrew!
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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