Tuscany is a charmed land, equally blessed by the genius of man and nature, and often by the combined efforts of both. Think of the vineyards: straight rows of baby green vines marching up the gently rolling hillsides, bounded by single files of darker green cypress trees, winding light beige roads leading to rust-colored farmhouses and golden hued castles, symmetrically rounded hilltops surmounted by towns so homogeneous as to seem one single building. Every inch of land has been sculpted, first by the elements and then by generations of inhabitants whose goals were always twofold: make the land produce as much as possible, make the land as beautiful as possible. Tuscany enchants us today because it holds together as a region, from the tiniest hamlet to Florence the Magnificent. For the living proof, take a short walk one day along the sides of the Belvedere in Florence: you will suddenly find yourself strolling down quiet lanes bounded by tall stone walls, cypress trees and golden hued country villas. You could be anywhere in Tuscany, and I dare you not to fantasize about living here.
Tuscany seems to be everyone's favorite vacation spot these days, and all the world knows Florence, Siena, Pisa, even tiny San Gimignano, with its 13 medieval towers. But Tuscany holds secret treasures even for the most seriously initiated. Exquisite Arezzo, home of Petrarch, father of the modern Italian language, and Guido d'Arezzo, inventor of the modern musical scale, is one of the great Renaissance jewels in this jewel box of a country. Among Arezzo's many masterpieces, two that stand out are the Duomo, with frescoes by Piero della Francesca and a tomb by Giotto, and the 15th-century church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, with a terracotta and marble high altar by Andrea della Robbia. Nearby Cortona, capital of "Chiantishire," as the British call it, is one of the oldest towns in Tuscany. Much of its Etruscan wall remains, separating the charming little medieval city from the surrounding olive groves and vineyards. Ten miles off the Tuscan shore lies Elba, the island where Napoleon spent his first exile until escaping in 1815. Visit his two homes, sip espresso in the charming port of Marina di Campo, or ramble among the hillsides covered with that lush, strongly perfumed mix of bushes, shrubs and flowers known as macchia mediterranea. Back on the mainland, the 14th-century monastery at Monte Oliveto Maggiore (near Asciano) has frescoes by Luca Signorelli and Sodoma, a pharmacy featuring herbal medicines made by the monks themselves, and a terracotta gateway by the Della Robbias. Just outside the seaside resort of Viareggio, famed for its raucous Carnevale parade in February, is the fascinating home of Giacomo Puccini in Torre del Lago. Visit the home all year round; in the summer stay for a performance of a Puccini opera in the outdoor theatre next to the lake.
"Grim," was how D.H. Lawrence described Volterra, an ancient Etruscan stronghold overlooking the sea. The city's massive fortress is indeed foreboding, but its gleaming alabaster facades make it unique among Tuscan centers, and its churches and palaces are filled with countless masterpieces. Lucca is famed for its perfect city walls, the wonderful 13th-century facade of San Michele, the enchanting elliptical shape of Piazza Anfiteatro. If you go there, notice the palazzo doors as you wander through the town: nowhere in Italy are they more inventive. Montepulciano enchanted Henry James, although he was perhaps too affected by its legendary wine to notice its splendid medieval churches and Renaissance palazzi. The savagery of the ancient inhabitants of Pistoia lives on in the weapon which takes its name from their city (although the word "pistol" originally referred to a type of dagger). But the idea of savagery is unfair; this city is an architectural feast, especially the unforgettable Ospedale del Ceppo, with its ornate terracotta frieze and medallions. Prato is another center of Tuscan art, starting from the romanesque cathedral (which hosts the Virgin Mary's girdle) and the massive 13th-century fortress. The Etruscan tombs outside Sovana lie within the quiet confines of a magnificent Tuscan forest; as you wander amongst the oak groves, you suddenly come face-to-face with stones that were planted there thousands of years ago. Take along a picnic and enjoy it near the Siren's Tomb, if you dare. Forty miles south of Siena lies Pienza, often known as the pearl of the Renaissance. The Italians call it città d'autore, "an author's city," because it was recreated in the 15th century for Pope Pius II by one guiding intellect, the architect Rossellino, who carefully designed its streets, palaces, churches and squares. Few towns give a better idea of what life was like in 15th- century Tuscany.
"Published by and reprinted with the kind permission of In Italy Online."
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